Cutting Along the Color Line
Cutting Along the Color Line: Black Barbers and Barber Shops in America
QUINCY T. MILLS
Copyright Date: 2013
Published by: University of Pennsylvania Press
Pages: 336
https://www.jstor.org/stable/j.ctt4cghgr
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Cutting Along the Color Line
Book Description:

Today, black-owned barber shops play a central role in African American public life. The intimacy of commercial grooming encourages both confidentiality and camaraderie, which make the barber shop an important gathering place for African American men to talk freely. But for many years preceding and even after the Civil War, black barbers endured a measure of social stigma for perpetuating inequality: though the profession offered economic mobility to black entrepreneurs, black barbers were obliged by custom to serve an exclusively white clientele. Quincy T. Mills traces the lineage from these nineteenth-century barbers to the bustling enterprises of today, demonstrating that the livelihood offered by the service economy was crucial to the development of a black commercial sphere and the barber shop as a democratic social space. Cutting Along the Color Line chronicles the cultural history of black barber shops as businesses and civic institutions. Through several generations of barbers, Mills examines the transition from slavery to freedom in the nineteenth century, the early twentieth-century expansion of black consumerism, and the challenges of professionalization, licensing laws, and competition from white barbers. He finds that the profession played a significant though complicated role in twentieth-century racial politics: while the services of shaving and grooming were instrumental in the creation of socially acceptable black masculinity, barbering permitted the financial independence to maintain public spaces that fostered civil rights politics. This sweeping, engaging history of an iconic cultural establishment shows that black entrepreneurship was intimately linked to the struggle for equality.

eISBN: 978-0-8122-0865-8
Subjects: History
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  1. Front Matter
    Front Matter (pp. i-vi)
  2. Table of Contents
    Table of Contents (pp. vii-viii)
  3. Preface
    Preface (pp. ix-xii)
  4. Introduction
    Introduction (pp. 1-12)

    In October 1838, the Colored American, a black newspaper based in New York City, published a letter to the editor from a black man who, while traveling in Orange County, New York, had a disturbing experience at a black-owned barber shop in Newburgh. “I went out to get my hair cut and my beard taken off,” he explained, “and for this purpose I called at the shop of Mr. . . . [sic], a colored barber, and sir, he would not touch my face with the handle of his razor, nor my head with the back of his shears! When...

  5. Part I. Barbering in Slavery and Freedom
    • CHAPTER 1 Barbering for Freedom in Antebellum America
      CHAPTER 1 Barbering for Freedom in Antebellum America (pp. 15-59)

      In his 1855 novella Benito Cereno, Herman Melville provides a vivid literary evocation of antebellum grooming. This tale about a revolt aboard the slave ship San Dominick is woven around the real-life American captain Amasa Delano’s account of an actual 1805 event.¹ To heighten the symbolic meaning of the story, Melville changed the name of the ship from The Tryal to San Dominick in reference to the 1790s slave revolt in Saint Domingue. In the story, Delano boards the seemingly distressed Spanish slave ship to find a dejected and bewildered captain, Benito Cereno. After Delano leaves the ship and Cereno...

    • CHAPTER 2 The Politics of “Color-Line” Barber Shops After the Civil War
      CHAPTER 2 The Politics of “Color-Line” Barber Shops After the Civil War (pp. 60-107)

      In the summer of 1918, Harlem Renaissance writer and anthropologist Zora Neale Hurston earned money to pay for tuition at Howard University by manicuring the hands of white politicians, bankers, and members of the press who frequented George Robinson’s barber shop on 1410 G Street, N.W., in Washington, D.C. She worked alongside another manicurist, ten barbers, and three porters, all black. This Virginia-born mixed-race barber, according to Hurston, owned nine shops in the city, but only one was in the black community.¹

      One afternoon that summer, a black man entered the shop, which caused confusion before he uttered a word....

    • CHAPTER 3 Race, Regulation, and the Modern Barber Shop
      CHAPTER 3 Race, Regulation, and the Modern Barber Shop (pp. 108-142)

      Fannie Barrier Williams, a black social worker and reformer in Chicago, insisted in 1905 that white men were organizing to displace “easy-going” black barbers. “When the hordes of . . . foreign folks began to pour into Chicago,” Williams asserted, “the demand for the Negro’s places began. White men have made more of the barber business than did the coloured men, and by organization have driven every negro barber from the business district. Thus a menial occupation has become a well-organized and genteel business with capital and system behind it.”¹ Two decades later William Dabney, a black newspaper editor in...

  6. Part II. Black Barbers, Patrons, and Public Spaces
    • CHAPTER 4 Rise of the New Negro Barber
      CHAPTER 4 Rise of the New Negro Barber (pp. 145-186)

      In 1904, Paul Laurence Dunbar published The Heart of Happy Hollow, a collection of short stories that included “The Scapegoat,” the first in a long line of twentieth-century works of fiction by black writers to explore the role black barbers and barber shops played in black communities. In the story, Dunbar captures well the changing currency of barber shops in the black community. Robinson Asbury, the protagonist, starts out working as a bootblack in a barber shop and moves up the ladder to become a porter, messenger, and barber, eventually purchasing his own shop. Dunbar was conscious of the racial...

    • CHAPTER 5 Bigger Than a Haircut: Desegregation and the Barber Shop
      CHAPTER 5 Bigger Than a Haircut: Desegregation and the Barber Shop (pp. 187-215)

      While visiting Chicago in November 1942, Bayard Rustin, civil rights activist, remarked to associates of the Congress for Racial equality (CORE) that he needed a haircut. When someone told Rustin where he could not get one, the University of Chicago barber shop, he proceeded to test the waters. Rustin entered the Reynolds Club shop shortly before James Robinson, a white CORE member. The barber bypassed Rustin and offered to groom Robinson, but both activists insisted that Rustin be served first. The barber denied Rustin his haircut, but a Divinity School professor witnessed the exchange and subsequently formed a committee of...

    • CHAPTER 6 The Culture and Economy of Modern Black Barber Shops
      CHAPTER 6 The Culture and Economy of Modern Black Barber Shops (pp. 216-248)

      Stokely Carmichael, activist and chairman of the Student nonviolent Coordinating Committee, believed that his “nappy African hair” saved him from the “cocoon of willed ‘innocence’ in which white America famously entombed its youth during the fifties.” When Carmichael and his family moved to Amethyst Street in the Morris Park/White Plains Road area of the Bronx, New York, in 1953, he recalled being the only black family in this predominately Italian and Irish neighborhood. His school and church were conveniently close by, even though he was one of only two black children there. When his Trinidadian father took him around to...

  7. Epilogue
    Epilogue (pp. 249-254)

    Since the 1970s, barbering has continued to be a viable vocation for African Americans, and barber shops are still as plentiful as churches. But many of the barbers I interviewed for this book who entered the field in the late 1950s and 1960s lament that there seems to be a decline in professionalism in black barber shops. Particularly, they question younger barbers’ commitment to treat the shop as a business instead of a side job, even though for some of them, barbering is indeed one of many jobs they hold down. These veteran barbers chide their younger colleagues for showing...

  8. Notes
    Notes (pp. 255-304)
  9. Index
    Index (pp. 305-314)
  10. Acknowledgments
    Acknowledgments (pp. 315-324)
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