Courtly Love Undressed
Courtly Love Undressed: Reading Through Clothes in Medieval French Culture
E. Jane Burns
Series: The Middle Ages Series
Copyright Date: 2002
Published by: University of Pennsylvania Press
Pages: 336
https://www.jstor.org/stable/j.ctt7zw6zx
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Courtly Love Undressed
Book Description:

Clothing was used in the Middle Ages to mark religious, military, and chivalric orders, lepers, and prostitutes. The ostentatious display of luxury dress more specifically served as a means of self-definition for members of the ruling elite and the courtly lovers among them. InCourtly Love Undressed, E. Jane Burns unfolds the rich display of costly garments worn by amorous partners in literary texts and other cultural documents in the French High Middle Ages.

Burns "reads through clothes" in lyric, romance, and didactic literary works, vernacular sermons, and sumptuary laws to show how courtly attire is used to negotiate desire, sexuality, and symbolic space as well as social class. Reading through clothes reveals that the expression of female desire, so often effaced in courtly lyric and romance, can be registered in the poetic deployment of fabric and adornment, and that gender is often configured along a sartorial continuum, rather than in terms of naturally derived categories of woman and man. The symbolic identification of the court itself as a hybrid crossing place between Europe and the East also emerges through Burns's reading of literary allusions to the trade, travel, and pilgrimage that brought luxury cloth to France.

eISBN: 978-0-8122-9124-7
Subjects: History
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  1. Front Matter
    Front Matter (pp. [i]-[vi])
  2. Table of Contents
    Table of Contents (pp. [vii]-[viii])
  3. Introduction The Damsel’s Sleeve: Reading Through Clothes in Courtly Love
    Introduction The Damsel’s Sleeve: Reading Through Clothes in Courtly Love (pp. 1-16)

    This book offers a reassessment of courtly love through the lens of the elaborate garments that typify court life in literary accounts of the French High Middle Ages. It argues, in brief, that many of our most basic assumptions about courtly love are called into question when we consider them in relation to the varied functions of sumptuous clothes that provide social definition for key players in love scenarios. Indeed, our perceptions of courtly desire, of the range of gendered subject positions in love, of the negotiability of class status through the practice of love and even the symbolic location...

  4. Part I Clothing Courtly Bodies
    • Chapter 1 Fortune’s Gown: Material Extravagance and the Opulence of Love
      Chapter 1 Fortune’s Gown: Material Extravagance and the Opulence of Love (pp. 19-56)

      Jean de Meun’s thirteenth-century version of theRoman de la Roseopens with a standard clerical condemnation of courtly love as a kind of incurable torment that enflames the hearts of fools and makes them suffer unrequited desire.¹ Jean’s spokesperson, Lady Reason, further condemns the folly of this consuming love when it becomes a form of covetousness, when the love of bodily pleasures becomes confused with the insatiable love of riches.² Different from the reciprocal affection of Ciceronian friendship that Reason condones, the pursuit of physical pleasure and passion more often resembles the obsessive pursuit of tangible material gain, the...

  5. Part II Reconfiguring Desire:: The Poetics of Touch
    • Chapter 2 Amorous Attire: Dressing Up for Love
      Chapter 2 Amorous Attire: Dressing Up for Love (pp. 59-87)

      Scholars who have discussed, debated, critiqued, censured, and often maligned the concept of courtly love since its inception in 1883 tend to agree, whatever their other disputes, on two things: that a literary work embodying the ideology of courtly love will necessarily depict, in some way, both a putatively heterosexual love—generally the unrequited or otherwise vexed passion of an aristocratic male suitor for a beautiful lady—and, secondarily, that the problematic passion will be situated within an idealized public sphere of refined court life in the early Middle Ages. Most scholars of courtly love would not readily characterize the...

    • Chapter 3 Love’s Stitches Undone: Women’s Work in the chanson de toile
      Chapter 3 Love’s Stitches Undone: Women’s Work in the chanson de toile (pp. 88-118)

      A remarkable passage in Gautier d’Arras’sIlle et Galeron(ca. 1167–78) provides a particularly cogent example of the way sewing, like female attire itself, balances tenuously on the line between empowering and entrapping medieval heroines. Having fallen helplessly and hopelessly in love with the tale’s hero, Ille, the heroine, Ganor, decries her fate by explaining that she has been sewn into her clothing by the artful stitches of the Goddess of Love. Amours, here figured as a woman, binds the unsuspecting female lover in the trap of courtly garments, carefully laced and woven with dolorous threads that seem at...

  6. Part III Denaturalizing Sex:: Women and Men on a Gendered Sartorial Continuum
    • Chapter 4 Robes, Armor, and Skin
      Chapter 4 Robes, Armor, and Skin (pp. 121-148)

      In Robert de Blois’s thirteenth-century taleFloris et Lyriope, the standard plot of Narcissus’s demise, in which falling in love means overvaluing one’s own beauty and plunging to a vainglorious and prideful death, provides the frame around another tale of courtly coupling in which clothes, not beauty, make all the difference. To be sure, Narcissus explains the danger of beauty at the end of this text:

      C’est la chose que plus m’ocist.

      Puis que je l’ain, amer me doit.

      Ne cuit pas que ma beautez soit

      Tele que lo dongier me face

      De moi amer. vv. 1682–86

      (It’s the...

    • Chapter 5 From Woman’s Nature to Nature’s Dress
      Chapter 5 From Woman’s Nature to Nature’s Dress (pp. 149-178)

      Old French tales of courtly coupling typically contain cast-off phrases that situate the medieval act of falling in love as a privileged inheritor of the prelapsarian moment of falling into sin. In these instances, the biblical fall into gendered, sexualized flesh is rewritten as an elevation into pleasurable, heterosexual courtly passion. The thirteenth-centuryRoman de la poire, which provides the most thorough rewriting of the Adam and Eve story, announces that:

      Des puis qu’Adan mordi la pome,

      ne fumes tel poire trovee;

      bien orroiz com s’est puis provee.

      En la poire mors sanz congié.

      …

      Tel force avoit qu’ele pooit...

  7. Part IV Expanding Courtly Space Through Eastern Riches
    • Chapter 6 Saracen Silk: Dolls, Idols, and Courtly Ladies
      Chapter 6 Saracen Silk: Dolls, Idols, and Courtly Ladies (pp. 181-210)

      The first volume of the thirteenth-century Lancelot-Grail Cycle, theEstoire del Saint Graal, contains a curious story of King Mordrain’s doll. It is, at one and the same time, a story of conversion and a love story, both set within a larger tale of the transfer of the relic-like Holy Grail from the Middle East to Great Britain by the Chosen Quester, Galahad. The conversion story of King Mordrain caught the imagination of theEstoire’s anonymous author, who extends the earlier account provided in theQueste del Saint Graal, committing fully one-fifth of theEstoireto chronicling the Saracen king’s...

    • Chapter 7 Golden Spurs: Love in the Eastern World of Floire et Blancheflor
      Chapter 7 Golden Spurs: Love in the Eastern World of Floire et Blancheflor (pp. 211-230)

      The mid-twelfth-century tale ofFloire et Blanchefloris a deceptively simple love story. To judge from the protagonists’ names alone, Floire and Blancheflor appear at first to incarnate the quintessential innocent delight and natural simplicity of love’s garden: two flowers, male and female, joined from childhood in sweet embrace. They seem a perfectly balanced metaphor for the flowering of heterosexual desire in the western courtly tradition. But they are not. Blancheflor, born of the kidnapped daughter of a French knight on pilgrimage to Compostela, falls in love with the Muslim king’s son in a hybrid locus both western and pagan:...

  8. Coda: Marie de Champagne and the Matière of Courtly Love
    Coda: Marie de Champagne and the Matière of Courtly Love (pp. 231-236)

    In closing, I would like to return to France, to the county of Champagne, which has been considered traditionally the literary center of courtly love, and more specifically to the prologue of one of the most highly discussed courtly romances in the French tradition, the inaugural tale of love between Lancelot and Guenevere:Le Chevalier de la charrete. The prologue to this tale of star-crossed lovers seems at first to have nothing to do with clothes. It features an influential female literary patron, not a dolledup courtly beauty. The relationship staged in the prologue’s opening line is between Marie, the...

  9. Notes
    Notes (pp. 237-294)
  10. Bibliography
    Bibliography (pp. 295-318)
  11. Index
    Index (pp. 319-324)
  12. Acknowledgments
    Acknowledgments (pp. 325-326)
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