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Encarnación’s Kitchen

Encarnación’s Kitchen: Mexican Recipes from Nineteenth-Century California

EDITED AND TRANSLATED BY DAN STREHL
WITH AN ESSAY BY VICTOR VALLE
ENCARNACIÓN PINEDO
Copyright Date: 2003
Edition: 1
Pages: 222
https://www.jstor.org/stable/10.1525/j.ctt7zw4fs
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  • Book Info
    Encarnación’s Kitchen
    Book Description:

    In 1991 Ruth Reichl, then aLos Angeles Timesfood writer, observed that much of the style now identified with California cuisine, and withnouvelle cuisine du Mexique,was practiced by Encarnación Pinedo a century earlier. A landmark of American cuisine first published in 1898 asEl cocinero español (The Spanish Cook), Encarnación's Kitchenis the first cookbook written by a Hispanic in the United States, as well as the first recording of Californio food-Mexican cuisine prepared by the Spanish-speaking peoples born in California. Pinedo's cookbook offers a fascinating look into the kitchens of a long-ago culture that continues to exert its influence today.Of some three hundred of Pinedo's recipes included here-a mixture of Basque, Spanish, and Mexican-many are variations on traditional dishes, such as chilaquiles, chiles rellenos, and salsa (for which the cook provides fifteen versions). Whether describing how to prepare cod or ham and eggs (a typical Anglo dish labeled"huevos hipócritas"), Pinedo was imparting invaluable lessons in culinary history and Latino culture along with her piquant directions. In addition to his lively, clear translation, Dan Strehl offers a remarkable view of Pinedo's family history and of the material and literary culture of early California cooking. Prize-winning journalist Victor Valle puts Pinedo's work into the context of Hispanic women'stestimoniosof the nineteenth century, explaining how the book is a deliberate act of cultural transmission from a traditionally voiceless group.

    eISBN: 978-0-520-93933-2
    Subjects: History

Table of Contents

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  1. Front Matter
    (pp. i-iv)
  2. Table of Contents
    (pp. v-vi)
  3. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
    (pp. vii-viii)
    Dan Strehl
  4. A CURSE OF TEA AND POTATOES: The Life and Recipes of Encarnación Pinedo
    (pp. 1-18)
    VICTOR VALLE

    There is nothing new in saying that cookbooks are read in bed or the garden as often as they are read inside the kitchen, for motives that have nothing to do with cooking. List all the cookbooks that have made the link between childhood memories and unsatisfied adult hunger, and you have filled a library with culinary nostalgia. But what about a recipe book that is intended to settle old scores, or one that is intended to protect its user from disappearing and doubles as a disguise from mortal enemies?

    That, among other things, is what Encarnación Pinedo serves forth...

  5. IN ENCARNACIÓN’S KITCHEN
    (pp. 19-40)
    DAN STREHL

    A century ago, Encarnación Pinedo produced a landmark of American cuisine,El cocinero español: Obra que contiene mil recetas valiosas y utiles para cocinar con facilidad en diferentes estilos. Comprendido advertencias y explicaciones aproposito que ponen el arte de la cocina al alcance de todos (The Spanish Cook: A Work Containing a Thousand Valuable and Useful Recipes to Cook with Ease in Different Styles. Including Advice and Explanations That Put the Art of Cooking within Reach of Everyone), published in San Francisco by E. C. Hughes, in 1898. The first cookbook written by a Hispanic in the United States, it...

  6. [Illustrations]
    (pp. None)
  7. EL COCINERO ESPAÑOL

    • A NOTE ON THE TEXT
      (pp. 43-44)
      Dan Strehl
    • DEDICATION
      (pp. 45-46)
      Encarnación Pinedo
    • INTRODUCTION: The Art of Cooking
      (pp. 47-54)

      This is one of the arts that very few of those who are called chefs possess in perfection: and even though it is considered one of the most essential accomplishments, its study seems to have been ignored among families in these modern times. In earlier times, the people of the Middle Ages had more or less mastered it, always in accordance with the wealth, opulence, potential, and social position of each nation and its people.

      The Persians, said Herodotus, had the custom of celebrating their birthdays, and it was only then that they had great feasts and sacrificed one of...

  8. RECETAS

    • SOPAS, PAN, HUEVOS
      (pp. 57-70)

      Chop pork loin until it is minced or ground, and remove any sinews. Then add finely chopped green onion, peeled and seeded tomatoes, parsley, fresh or dry coriander, and garlic.

      Add a piece of cornmeal paste [nixtamal] or a spoonful of cornmeal, one or two raw eggs, bread crumbs, a piece of lard or butter, salt, and pepper.

      Mix these together by hand, forming meatballs as usual, then add them to the boiling stock. If there is no stock, cook in boiling water.

      Season the broth with tomato, green onion, chopped parsley, salt, pepper, and butter. Thicken the broth with...

    • PESCADO
      (pp. 71-80)

      Cook the hake in salted water; remove the bones and the skin, keeping only the meat, and chop it finely. Beat a portion of the hake with eggs (whites and yolks), fried chopped onion, parsley, salt, peppers, raisins, or sugar to smooth the dish. Mix everything together and make fishballs from the paste. Fry them in lard or olive oil, keeping the fishballs apart with a spoon.

      Make a sauce in the same frying pan in which the fishballs were cooked. To do this, sprinkle a little flour over the cooking residue; add a few drops of vinegar and finely...

    • AVES
      (pp. 81-93)

      Cut raw poultry breasts into small pieces, simmer them, then grind or chop them until they are reduced to a paste.

      Take a good piece of white bread that has been fried [and] then simmered in broth, and put it in the mortar with the poultry breasts, and add pepper, salt, nutmeg, a piece of butter the size of an egg, very finely chopped green onions, two shallots, and some cooked egg yolk.

      Mix all together and form the meatballs with your hands, then put them in the broth to cook.

      After roasting or cooking some tomatoes, squeeze out the...

    • CARNE
      (pp. 94-115)

      Chop equal parts of raw veal and chicken breasts; when well chopped, add bread crumbs moistened with broth and egg yolks and whites, onion, parsley, tarragon, pepper, salt, and a piece of butter the size of an egg. Mix everything together with your hands, and form the meatballs, putting them in a boiling broth.

      Chop veal or pork until it’s reduced to a paste. Also chop a small piece of lard, with onion, parsley, nutmeg, pepper, paprika, salt, thyme, two handfuls of bread crumbs, and a tablespoon of savory dry flour.

      Mix everything with your hands, and make larger than...

    • VERDURAS Y MAÍZ
      (pp. 116-143)

      Remove the leaves from around the artichokes, then soak them.

      Simmer the artichokes with the heads down, about one-third covered in the water. Hermetically seal the casserole with a piece of linen and put the cover on this. Put it on the fire, which should be fairly hot. The steam will penetrate the artichokes and preserve their natural flavor.

      You can use one-half water and one-half olive oil [for cooking the artichokes]. If you like them cold, serve with oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper.

      Cut the tips from the artichokes and cook them with plenty of chopped garlic and salt....

    • RELLENOS
      (pp. 144-147)

      Lightly boil the liver, heart, and gizzards of the poultry. Chop them as finely as possible, [and] add white bread soaked in rich milk, two tablespoons of butter, four raw eggs, six stuffed olives, a finely chopped onion, and salt. Also chop the olives.

      Mix it well so [that] when you’re finished, everything is well blended. If the stuffing is dry when finished, add more milk. Stuff the poultry with this mixture.

      This stuffing can be served hot or cold. If you like it whiter, slice the bread thinner.

      Add to a pound of clarified sugar, half a quart of...

    • SALSAS
      (pp. 148-158)

      Crush some garlic cloves, finely ground pepper, cloves, cinnamon, ginger, oregano, thyme, and salt. Mix in equal parts of vinegar and water.

      Slice pork or lamb loins into pieces and place in a greased pot, and add enough adobo to cover the meat.

      Cover, and keep the pot tightly lidded for a period of eight days without looking. Then cook the meats in the sauce until it is completely reduced and only the fat from the meat remains. Fry the meat until tender.

      The marinade can be preserved for three or four months by taking the precaution of removing it...

    • DULCES
      (pp. 159-192)

      Take four ounces of cleaned anise and infuse it for a month in twoazumbresof brandy; clarify it and add a pound and a half of sugar dissolved in anazumbreof water; mix it well and filter it.

      Note: anazumbreequals a half gallon.

      Finely chop a pound of almonds, then add them to egg whites and twelve ounces of powdered sugar, beat them to snowy peaks, then spread them on sheets of white paper and put them in the oven.

      Take a proportional quantity of clean almonds, grind them, and put them in the milk, then...

  9. INGREDIENTS AND PROCEDURES
    (pp. 193-196)
  10. BIBLIOGRAPHY
    (pp. 197-204)
  11. INDEX
    (pp. 205-214)
  12. Back Matter
    (pp. 215-215)