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Medieval Clothing and Textiles 7

Medieval Clothing and Textiles 7

ROBIN NETHERTON
GALE R. OWEN-CROCKER
Volume: 7
Copyright Date: 2011
Published by: Boydell and Brewer,
Pages: 192
https://www.jstor.org/stable/10.7722/j.ctt81n2t
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  • Book Info
    Medieval Clothing and Textiles 7
    Book Description:

    This year's volume focuses largely on the British Isles, with papers on dress terms in the Middle English ‘Pearl’; a study of a thirteenth-century royal bride's trousseau, based on unpublished documents concerning King Henry III's Wardrobe; an investigation into the "open surcoat" referenced in the multilingual texts of late medieval England; and, based on customs accounts, a survey of cloth exports from late medieval London and the merchants who profited from them. Commercial trading of cloth is also the subject of a study of fifteenth-century brokers' books, revealing details of types, designs, and regulation of the famous silks from Lucca, Italy. Another paper focuses on art, reconsidering the incidence of frilled veils in the Low Countries and adopting an innovative means of analysis to question the chronology, geographical diversity, and social context of this style. Robin Netherton is a professional editor and a researcher/lecturer on the interpretation of medieval European dress; Gale R. Owen-Crocker is Professor of Anglo-Saxon Culture at the University of Manchester. Contributors: Benjamin L. Wild, Isis Sturtewagen, Kimberly Jack, Mark Chambers, Eleanor Quinton, John Oldland, Christine Meek.

    eISBN: 978-1-84615-951-0
    Subjects: History

Table of Contents

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  1. Front Matter
    (pp. i-iv)
  2. Table of Contents
    (pp. v-v)
  3. Illustrations
    (pp. vi-vii)
  4. Tables
    (pp. viii-viii)
  5. Contributors
    (pp. ix-x)
  6. Preface
    (pp. xi-xii)
  7. The Empress’s New Clothes: A Rotulus Pannorum of Isabella, Sister of King Henry III, Bride of Emperor Frederick II
    (pp. 1-32)
    Benjamin L. Wild

    Thus is Matthew Paris’s description, adapted from Roger of Wendover, of the trousseau of Isabella, a younger sister of King Henry III of England and the bride of Emperor Frederick II. The gold, silver, and clothes were carried from London to Sandwich, where Isabella, her household attendants, and various imperial representatives bade farewell to the English court on May 8, 1235. As a parting gesture, an act of characteristic benevolence and brotherly affection, Henry III distributed gifts of plate to the imperial party before their embarkation. Three days later, Isabella reached Antwerp.² After processing through Cologne, and distributing many of...

  8. Unveiling Social Fashion Patterns: A Case Study of Frilled Veils in the Low Countries (1200–1500)
    (pp. 33-64)
    Isis Sturtewagen

    Veils with frilled or ruffled edges have long been recognized as a fashionable accessory for upper-class women in some parts of Europe in the later Middle Ages.¹ Until recently, however, it was generally believed frilled veils were very rare in the Low Countries. This study will make clear that the opposite is the case. Nearly 200 visual records of frilled veils—including paintings, sculptures, and figurative objects such as utensils and accessories—were collected from this region and subjected to statistical analysis. Written accounts mentioning frilled headdresses were examined as well.² The morphological evolution and the social patterns in the...

  9. What Is the Pearl-Maiden Wearing, and Why?
    (pp. 65-86)
    Kimberly Jack

    Anyone who has read and studied Pearl, the late-fourteenth-century Middle English poem classified variously as a dream vision or consolatio, likely retains only a vague mental image of the Pearl-Maiden’s garments. In Pearl—which survives only in the Cotton Nero A.x. manuscript along with Sir Gawain and the Green Knight, Patience, and Cleanness or Purity—the Pearl-Maiden acts as a guide and instructress to the grief-stricken narrator or Dreamer. The Maiden appears within the Dreamer’s vision wearing a brilliant white gown ornamented with pearls and a crown decorated with yet more pearls, and she bears—somehow affixed to the breast...

  10. “ Hys surcote was ouert”: The “Open Surcoat” in Late Medieval British Texts
    (pp. 87-110)
    Mark Chambers

    Statements such as this one by Françoise Piponnier and Perrine Mane point toward the fact that costume historians regularly encounter two important lexicological phenomena when dealing with the vocabulary of cloth and clothing in later medieval Britain: first, that a multitude of languages and, often, what we might now assume to be language mixing, “codeswitching,” or else borrowing occurs frequently in surviving documentary evidence,² and second, that the fourteenth century in particular has more than its fair share of new lexical items from across the multilingual spectrum.³

    Historians of cloth, clothing, and related material cultures frequently express the difficulty of...

  11. London Merchants’ Cloth Exports, 1350–1500
    (pp. 111-140)
    Eleanor Quinton and John Oldland

    English woollen cloth exports rose dramatically from the mid-fourteenth to the beginning of the sixteenth century, as did London’s share of those exports. In the year that the Black Death reached England, 1348–49, London exported only 217 cloths, 12.5 percent of the national total of 1,734 cloths.¹ By the first decade of the fifteenth century, London’s cloth exports had grown to 13,921 annually, 42 percent of national exports of 33,158 equivalent assize broadcloths;² and a century later, 49,500 cloths were shipped from London annually, 61.1 percent of the 81,037 cloths shipped nationally. (See table 5.1 for cloth exports nationally...

  12. Laboreria Sete: Design and Production of Lucchese Silks in the Late Fourteenth and Early Fifteenth Centuries
    (pp. 141-168)
    Christine Meek

    It is ironic that information on the nature of the silk fabrics produced in Lucca is comparatively sparse for the thirteenth century, when the industry was at the height of its prosperity, whereas for the late fourteenth and early fifteenth centuries, when the industry is generally agreed to have been in difficulties, information is much more abundant. For the thirteenth century there are numerous contracts for the sale and purchase of silk and the manufacture of silk cloth in the notarial records, and Lucchese silks are listed in inventories in Italy and Northern Europe, but these do not provide much...

  13. Recent Books of Interest
    (pp. 169-176)
  14. Contents of Previous Volumes
    (pp. 177-180)
  15. Back Matter
    (pp. 181-181)